One of the first things you might notice when you land in Lima, Peru, is that the traffic is really bad. We immediately began to wonder how we would get all of our sightseeing in, within a very limited time-frame.
That's when our friends at GOGO Biking stepped in. GOGO Biking provided us with four very sturdy, fully functional, bell-equipped, bikes, each perfectly sized for each rider. They also provided helmets and locks. At $12/day, renting bikes in Lima is a no-brainer! GOGO Biking also gave us a bike route map. However, lucky for us, we were biking on a Sunday, when a major thoroughfare, Avenida Arequipa, 6kms from Miraflores to the historic downtown area, is closed to cars each week from 7am to 1pm. This is known as Ciclodía, and it was an excellent introduction to the city. Imagine "Bike the Drive" every Sunday but on flat road! GOGO Biking is located right on the Avenida at 5001, so it couldn't have been easier to obtain our bikes and hit the road.
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Along our ride we stopped at Huaca Pucllana. Construction of the Huaca Pucllana ancient pyramid began in 200 A.D. by the first Lima natives. It was built from clay and served as a temple, though civilizations that followed used it as a burial site for their nobility. You will stand in awe of its 82 feet stature and "library" architecture technique.
Things to note:
- Currently, you must book a tour in advance. You may not wander the grounds without a tour guide. Tours last apx. 1 hour.
- The site is open from 9am to 4:15pm. It is closed on Tuesdays and Thursdays.
- Tickets are ~$4 for adults and ~$2 for children.
- There is an onsite museum in addition to the site tour.
- There is a small farm/garden on the premises that supplies the onsite Restaurant Huaca Pucllana with fresh fruits and vegetables. It's a little pricey, but the patio has an optimal view of the pyramid, especially at night when it is all lit up.
- Other good restaurants we'd recommend in this area are Cosme and Siete Sopas.
After our visit, we mounted our bicycles again and pedaled through some quiet streets to Bosque el Olivar (Olive Grove Forest.) The beautiful park is home to more than 1,600 olive trees, a lagoon, and plenty of space for a nice picnic. It is also very close to the next stop on our D.I.Y. ancient ruins tour of Lima, Huaca Huallamarca.
Huaca Huallamarca is another adobe pyramid in the center of the San Isidro district. This one dates back to 200 B.C. and has been beautifully restored. The site and museum are open on Tuesdays, Thursday, and Saturdays from 10am to 3pm, and costs about $1.50 to enter.
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Lima Fun Fact #1: The reason these ancient, clay-based pyramids have survived for centuries is because Lima is a desert and receives virtually no rainfall. All the flora and fauna found around Lima are a result of artificial irrigation systems.
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From San Isidro, we found our way onto the Malecon. The Malecon is a six-mile scenic path along the seaside cliffs of Lima. The coastal trail passes a number of lush parks and gardens, cliff-top restaurants with jaw-dropping views, a field of daring para-gliders, a working lighthouse, a gorgeous shopping mall, playgrounds, and fountains. It is the perfect place to safely bike and worthy of numerous breaks.
- Grab a coffee at BuenaVista Cafe, and/or a sweet or savory crepe at Beso Frances.
- Beso Frances offers a cute kids meal for under $7.
- Have a picnic at the new lantern-decorated Miraflores Chinese Park.
- It might be worth packing a light blanket to sit upon.
- Feel the love at Parque del Amor.
- Admire the park's centerpiece - the statue "El Beso" (The Kiss) from Victor Delfín.
- Relax along the colorful, mosaic-covered walls that double as benches and are reminiscent of Parc Guell in Barcelona.
- Stroll around reading the romantic quotes that wind throughout the mosaics.
- Take in the breath-taking views.
- Watch bright parachutes unfurl, as para-gliders take flight off the adjacent cliff.
- Envy the surfers catching gnarly waves down below.
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Not far from Parque del Amor, is Parque Alfredo Salazar, which is a large lawn with a children's playground and beautiful fountains. It is also where you will find the famous Paddington Bear statue.
However, possibly more importantly, hidden beneath Parque Alfredo Salazar is Larcomar. Now, I am not the type to recommend a shopping center as a "must" on a list of sights to see, but this unique mall hanging off the cliffs of Miraflores is so stunning, I must make an exception. In addition to the immaculate shops and spectacular views, are some of the best restaurants in Lima. Jutting out, literally on a cliff's ledge, is Mangos. Mangos is open from breakfast to dinner, and there is something on the menu for every family member and appetite. We loved it! Another exquisite option is Tanta. Tanta's cuisine has become world renown, with chains scattered across the globe, including one in Chicago.
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From Larcomar, we biked all the way down to Barranca. Barranca is known as a bohemian neighborhood with its vibrant street art. It's quaint streets are lined by colonial mansions turned picturesque restaurants and cafes, in which to imbibe a refreshing Pisco Sour. Off the main plaza is Puente de Los Suspiros (the Bridge of Sighs.) As legend has it, if you can make it across the bridge with only one breath, your wish will come true. Your kids will surely enjoy the challenge. After crossing in one breath, turn back and take a more leisurely stroll as it is quite a romantic spot.
Places to eat in Barranca: Restaurant Javier or Sibaris. Sibaris had the best ceviche!
Barranca is also one of the few places where you can ride (or walk) down to the beach below the city, via Bajada de Banos (the road below the Puente de Los Suspiros.) You can ride along the La Costa Verde (The Green Coast) to Bajada Balta to return back up to Miraflores. Be warned this is a steep climb! There are a couple of places where you could carry your bike up steps instead.
Lima Fun Fact #2: Lima is the only capital city in South America that touches the sea.
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Our adventures in other parts of Peru, ended with a return to Lima and another full day to explore. Fortunately for us, it just so happened to be a Sunday, when the Avenida Arequipa was closed to motorists again. (Note there is always a bike path on this street, just not nearly as wide or uninterrupted.) On an alternate biking tour of Lima, you may ride on Avenida Arequipa inland towards the historic center of Lima, and World Heritage Site, known as The City of Kings.
- In addition to Ciclodia, another biking program called, Al Damero de Pizarro sin Carro prohibits automobiles, on a majority of the historic center streets, from 7am to 7pm on Sundays.
- Appreciate the Spanish colonial architecture throughout this area, including the Plaza de Armas, the Presidential Palace, the Cathedral of Lima, the Plaza Bolivar, and the Church and Convent of Santo Domingo.
- Pay special attention to the ornate balconies.
- Lock up your bike to shop and explore the pedestrian-only zone of Jirón de la Unión.
- When you see a line of locals going down the street from a bakery, join it! Case in point - Churros San Francisco S.A.C.
- Have a traditional Peruvian sandwich at El Chinito.
- El Chinito reminded me of BBQ places in the south.
- You pick your protein and then apply your own sauces and sides.
- Take a tour of the Church and Convent of San Francisco.
- The tour takes about an 1.5 hours and costs about $3 for adults and half that for children.
- The Church and Convent of San Francisco is probably most famous for its eerie catacombs, which still house the skulls and bones of the 30,000 people who were buried here.
- An absolute must-see in Lima is the Magic Water Circuit of the Reserve Park.
- The park is opened from at 2pm-10pm daily, so depending on the timing, you may want to bike over, however, I recommend returning at night!
- It costs about $1.50 to enter.
- You should make advance reservations online for the date you wish to visit. Tickets are good all evening.
- The attraction consists of 13 incredible fountains, some of which are interactive, so if you want to get wet - dress appropriately.
- Beginning at 6:30pm there is an hourly multi-media show. The Fuente de la Fantasía Water Show utilizes water, music, and laser projections to take you through a brief history of Peru and its culture.
- There are food stands throughout the park where you can get really good sausages, chocolate churros, popcorn, or a Peruvian specialty dessert called Combinado - a sweet combination of Mazamorra Morada and Arroz con Leche.
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In two days on bicycle we were able to see and do everything we wanted to in Lima. I really don't think we would have been able to any other way.
Stay tuned for more on our adventures in Peru.
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